See, the inclusion of the drum/drum distribution block and an aftermarket proportioning valve confuses me a bit. The more the car weighs the more "energy/effort" must be applied to stop it. The car only weigh's 1050 kg which is a big factor.Ī street car would probably be more than twice that weight. It has good brakes because it has massive rotors and callipers with large pad surface area. My race car has 5:1 pedal ratio and I can generate about 800 to 1000 psi in the front system if I really stand on them. The booster adds to the pressure supplied by the driver. The booster gives you more line pressure with essentially less leverage/force applied to the pedal. The way I think about this is by thinking long wrecking bar versus a short bar. The second is pedal ratio which on most standard cars is low. Disc brakes have no mechanical advantage therefore they require more line pressure to work properly. The result is stand on the pedal hard enough and if you have big diameter/wide drums they can be effective until they heat up and you get brake fade. I am not a brake expert and I will probably get/explain something wrong.ĭrum brakes have what is termed mechanical advantage which is essentially the shoes "wind" in to the brake drum adding to the force the driver is applying to the brakes. Two things are relevant in my mind and on a standard vehicle unmodified there is not much you can do to fix this. I have dealt with Dr Diff before and have had good results.ĭoes anyone here have a 4 wheel disc setup with a manual master cylinder in place? I do not want to take a step backward in terms of braking feel or performance. Now I am considering a "do-over" with the manual brake setup. I gave up on the manual brake idea and put the power stuff back on. The power booster must have masked the mismatch. I found later that all along, I had a disc/drum proportioning valve in the system. The best of the 4 was just barely able to skid on a dirt surface. Each one resulted in a firm pedal but terrible braking. I tried 4 different manual master cylinders with sizes between 15/16" and 1 1/8". In 2012, I wanted to see how the car would perform with manual brakes. I want to convert to a manual master cylinder for simplicity, weight savings (15 lbs!) and to be able to use a threaded-adjustable pushrod to tailor the pedal height to my liking. This setup may sound odd, but the brakes are great. I do have a drum/drum distribution block, NOT a proportioning valve. Yeah, it is a disc/drum master cylinder but it works great. The Booster and master cylinder are stock for a 1975 Dart with a 15/16" master cylinder. The front calipers have a 2.75" single piston, the rears have a 1.5" single piston. My '70 Charger has 4 wheel disc brakes and and power assist.
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